Poster

P13.11 – Where are my wood-based clothes?

Helena Westerback

Aalto University

When it comes to environmental pollution, the fashion industry
is often identified as a major contributor.
In 2023, the global textile production reached 124 million tons, with
synthetic (oi-based) fibers accounting for 67%, natural fibers for 26%, and
man-made cellulosic fiber for 6%[1]. The overconsumption of oil and cotton
creates significant environmental stress, including greenhouse gas emissions
and the pollution of land, water and air[2]. Wood-based alternatives have the
potential to reduce this impact by replacing synthetic fibers[3].
Currently, viscose dominates the market for wood-based textile fibers, but
its production relies on toxic processing chemicals[1]. More environmentally
friendly alternatives, such as Lyocell, Ioncell® and Spinnova, can replace
them with less hazardous chemicals and processes[4]. They have, however, not
achieved the same commercial success as viscose[1].
In the Nordic countries, multiple companies and innovators are actively
working on the next generation of wood-based textile fibers[5]. This study
aims to assess how close these innovations are to commercialization, identify
their key barriers and enablers, and analyze how they have navigated
challenges.
The data is gathered through semi-structured in-depth interviews and
analyzed thematically. The findings will, hopefully, contribute to advancing
textile manufacturing toward a more wood-based and sustainable future.

References:[1] Textile Exchange. Materials Market Report; 2024. [2] Coscieme, L.; Akenji, L.; Latva-Hakuni, E.; Vladimirova, K.; Niinimäki, K.; Henninger, C.; Joyner-Martinez, C.; Nielsen, K.; Iran, S.; D’Itria, E. Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable – Resizing Fashion for a Fair Consumption Space; Berlin, 2022. [3] Hurmekoski, E.; Suuronen, J.; Ahlvik, L.; Kunttu, J.; Myllyviita, T. Substitution Impacts of Wood‐based Textile Fibers: Influence of Market Assumptions. J Ind Ecol 2022, 26 (4), 1564–1577. https://doi.org/10.1111/jiec.13297. [4] Felgueiras, C.; Azoia, N. G.; Gonçalves, C.; Gama, M.; Dourado, F. Trends on the Cellulose-Based Textiles: Raw Materials and Technologies. Front Bioeng Biotechnol 2021, 9. https://doi.org/10.3389/fbioe.2021.608826. [5] Garton, A. Out of the Woods: Nordic Countries Take the Lead with a Range of Innovative Fibres. https://texfash.com/special/out-of-the-woods-nordic-countries-take-the-lead-with-a-range-of-innovative-fibres.

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